Croatia

Historic Architecture, Stunning Blue Water and Charming Cobblestone Streets

Story by Alley L. Biniarz
Photography by Bill and Pam Seney

With its crystaline blue waters, cobblestone streets and beautiful architecture, no ifs-ands-or-buts, Pam and Bill Seney would go back to Croatia in a heartbeat. The couple has visited many scenic ports during their 38 years of travel but if there was one word they could use to describe Croatia it would be “spectacular”. Everything has that certain twinkle and charm when you’re there: the Adriatic Sea sparkles, the local beer is crisp and the seasonal food is just that, spectacular. 

Pam and Bill visited three spots along their cruise around Croatia and the place worthy of starting with, they say, is Dubrovnik. This city was their favourite from the moment they got off the ship. The two got onto the cable car and as per their usual, they took to the highest point of the city: Mount Srd. “We try to get to the highest point to get the view of the village, mountains and ocean. This is where you can see it all,” Bill says. They got a fantastic view of the walled city and surrounding area. The day was hot, but it was tempered by having a nice cold beer at the restaurant up top while they admired the view for half an hour. 

“The best part about seeing the town from above is that once you go back down, you know where you’re going and what you want to see,” Pam adds. 

They had the aerial map in mind when they took to the cobbled streets below to get a closer look at the old wall as it juts out to the ocean and encases the old city. The two walked the entire old city wall and recommend any visitors do the same. “It takes about two hours but it’s worth every inch and step. You’ll see everything,” Pam says. They also took in the old churches, the castle and guard tower, restaurants and shops along their walk. “I would put it up there on any city in the world,” Bill says. “Definitely in my top 10 for the natural beauty, the culture, the experience and the friendliness.” The two quite enjoyed frequenting restaurants along the marina and harbour front; it brought a relaxed setting that allowed them to simply sit and take in the stunning view around them. 

The two recounted the second favourite stop: Split. Split shares many of the gorgeous attributes of Dubrovnik and many of their beloved spots along the Adriatic Sea. The best part of Split is walking along the water for a few miles to take in the harbour front, they say. “And the beaches,” Pam adds about the famous Croatian beaches. “We hired a taxi to take us around to see five beaches and he took us to a real high point to get a view of the mountainous area and surrounding city. Bill even went swimming in the warm water!” 

When they travel, they’re really trying to get a perspective of how the locals live there, Bill says. The old town provides that, along with taking in the ancient part of the culture. Going into Split’s old town, like many old cities, you need to pass through an archway. It’s like going through a type of door into another world with little streets that feel more like narrow walkways. Here is where Pam and Bill saw the Marko Marulić Square or fruit market. “In most of Europe you get to see these bustling markets that are busy every day. People here don’t want frozen food, they want it fresh, so they go daily,” Bill says.

In the people’s square, they had planned to have a glass of wine at the Lvxor Cafe and Restaurant in the centre court in the Diocletian Palace. Like many others they’ve seen in photos, the two sat on these beautiful 1700-year-old stone steps, lined with red cushions, along this palace where waiters came to serve up the best regional wines. “When you’re sitting there, you’re staring at history through the Bell Tower at Saint Dominus Cathedral and the centurion soldiers still in their costumes,” she says. “We were just there, taking in the beautiful stone lanes, the ancient architecture that’s there and having a glass of wine amidst it all.” 

A short walk from there is the rotunda or atrium; Bill explains that it’s not technically an amphitheatre, however they have singers in there every day. The shape of the structure makes for outstanding acoustics, and he and Pam would go in there and listen. They were astounded at how the entirely stone circular room encased and amplified the sound – the only place it could go was up through the natural opening towards the sky. 

The highlight of their third stop, Rijeka, was going to Trsat Castle and of course they had to climb up to the top. The castle is on a hill 138 m above sea level and dominates Rijeka as it hovers over the town. To get there, they needed to climb the Peter Kruzic stairway which was constructed in 1531 and has 538 steps that lead up to the castle. Pam and Bill climbed each one and said it was absolutely worth the beauty. “How do you beat beautiful architecture, markets, churches, mountains and the ocean?” Bill says.

When they headed down, they went over to St. Vitus Cathedral and were able to see the old war tunnels built beside it. One tunnel is 330 m long, 10 m deep underground and was dug from 1939 to 1942 by the Italian military to protect the civilians from aerial bombings. Pam and Bill walked through part of the tunnel and were amazed at the “natural AC” function of the cool earth that provided a break from the heat above. 

Like in all the cities they visit, the Seneys like to go where the people are and so they took off to Korzo Street in the old town. To access the area, they needed to walk under the large clock tower through another 12-15 m tunnel before reaching the pedestrian only area. Bill says he gets a kick out of this every time they visit Europe. The restaurants were all nestled in the middle of the street and they could walk on either side of them, which Pam felt was charming and parklike. 

Although they tried to capture all the spectacular areas they witnessed, they say pictures and words can’t do the Croatian scenery justice. Pam and Bill say that Croatia is a must-see in person and to make time to just stop and rest to fully take in all the surrounding beauty it has to offer. 

Published in the February/March 2026 Edition.