Prague

A Book-Lover’s Dream

Story and Photography by Serafina Piasentin

Prague, the heart of Czech Republic, is regally nicknamed “the City of a Hundred Spires,” and I agree considering every building looks like a little palace. However, I’ll propose a new title: “the City of Libraries.” While I spent three days in the capital city in April of last year, I had the pleasure of visiting three medieval libraries and one modern book installation. This was easily the highlight of my trip, earning Prague the award of ‘best city I’ve visited.’ Let me guide you through Prague and hopefully convince you to put this city at the top of your bucket list.

Prague consists of two main areas joined by the famous 14th-century Charles Bridge. On the west side is Prague Castle where we witnessed the changing of the guards at noon. But beware of the lineup! We unfortunately didn’t have time to visit the castle, so make sure you go in the morning. 

The best thing to do on that side of the bridge is to walk 23 minutes uphill to the Strahov Libraries. This Premonstratensian Monastery was founded in 1140; however, after a fire destroyed it in 1258, it was rebuilt in its current Gothic style. Inside are two magnificent libraries. 

Theological Hall has a sky of white frescoes depicting people’s reactions towards books. Beneath it are rows of astronomical globes, a writing desk to the left cradling an open novel and statues dotting the wood-paneled floor. The main attraction is the floor-to-ceiling walls of books. 

The second is Philosophical Hall, which is much taller than the squat Theological Hall, has a domed ceiling with a radiant mural showing mankind’s journey to pursue wisdom. The walnut bookshelves stretch upwards for two levels, full of religious, medical, mathematical and geographical books. To reach the second level of books, there are spiral staircases in the library corners hidden behind false book spines. 

To gaze upon these libraries is truly any book-lover’s dream; you get to immerse yourself in various artforms, but only from afar. To preserve these libraries, visitors aren’t allowed to walk among the books; instead, they must stand behind a gate—which still offers a full view of the library, so in my book, it was worth the money. 

Another bonus of the Monastery is the beautiful white and blue frescoes in the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Again, I felt like a prisoner behind the metal gate keeping us from perusing the vast interior, but I slipped my phone through the cracks to get a stunning photo. 

After peeling ourselves away from the Monastery, we stumbled upon one of the many shops selling trdelnik, a fried cylindrical chimney cone topped with sugar. Dough is rolled into thin strips that are then wound around a spire called a trdlo spun over open coals until golden brown. We tried them at Café u Kajetána, but after crossing the Charles Bridge, we found many stands selling chimney cones in the Old Town Square which was bustling with Easter festivities. I’d recommend trying one with chocolate filling, one plain, and one with ice cream to fully understand their popularity. Take heed, though: they are very messy. 

To the East of the Charles Bridge is where we simply wandered through the colourful buildings. Some were engraved with writing, images and family crests. Others were topped with arches or crosses. Right behind the Main Square is the Church of Our Lady before Týn, a Gothic church rearing its two black spires like a dragon. As intimidating as it looks, it is breathtaking. In the same Square, you can find the ornate Astronomical Clock. Everywhere you look in Prague, there is some new, shiny object that will capture your attention. 

But there is one place I’ll warn you about: the Infinity Book Tower located in the Municipal Library of Prague. Unless you are a huge bibliophile, you might be dissuaded by the excruciatingly long line winding out of the library to see the optical illusion created by a mirror. We waited thirty minutes to peer through the opening in the book tower that spans floor to ceiling of the seemingly never-ending books. For me, it was worth it and I will forever treasure the picture I took… but it was overhyped. 

If you’re like me and don’t have much time in Prague, I’d recommend skipping the Book Tower and taking a tour at the Klementinum. I came for the Baroque Library but quickly found out I couldn’t see it unless I got a tour. Best money I’ve ever spent. The tour was in Czech, but I bought it anyway, more interested in seeing the sights than hearing about them. However, since there were so many English speakers in our group, the guide translated for us! 

The Klementinum was a former Jesuit college founded in 1556 and consists of a complex of historical buildings including a school, library, pharmacy and theater. Inside was my favourite library of the trip: the Baroque Library. Again, barred from entering, I hovered at the railing with wide eyes and an even wider mouth until the tour guide ushered me away. Filled with books from floor to balcony to ceiling, the shelves separated by spiral columns topped with gold, this library is home to many valuable manuscripts. The oldest document is a Greek Papyri from the 1st century. It also houses a collection of ancient Jesuit globes as well as the Vyšehrad Codex, a Latin coronation Gospel Book valued at 40 million euro.

I thought this was the highlight of the tour, but then we climbed 72 steps to the top of the Astronomical Tower and I was blown away yet again (not literally, thankfully, considering we were brought to an open, but guarded area). This gave me the best view of Prague. I could see all of the hundred spires, the Church, the Castle, and the surrounding green hills.

On this side of the bridge, we also visited the famed Dancing House. This building is abstract architecture considering the hotel looks like it’s caving in. In my opinion, it is more interesting than the Leaning Tower of Pisa. And if you climb to the top, there is a restaurant. Buy one drink and you can go out to the rooftop terrace to get the best views of the Charles Bridge and the Vltava River. 

Prague is the most picturesque city I’ve ever been to, for its palaces, its spires, its sweets and of course, its books. I hope you find yourself there soon.